Installation manual of the Planar 2D Diesel parking heater UNDER the cargo floor of a Volkswagen T5 or T6
Introduction / DisclaimerThis documentation has been compiled with the help of a number of our installation partners and represents the use of our DIY set for the T5 T6 in combination with a Planar 2D (2kW) air heater / heater. Who installs it himself does so entirely at his own risk, we are not liable for damage and / or injury, or something else . The text and the photographs are only for inspiration.Experience is required in automotive technology during installation.
What do I need?Actually it is very simple: A DIY kit including parking heater and a couple of warm air duct parts from your ever-friendly Volkswagen dealer in the area. The VW parts transport the warm air to the B-pillar, so the result looks like it came straight from the factory. In addition, the air ducts have been very well optimized in terms of flow, making it one of the most efficient systems with the least possible installation effort!
What's in the DIY installation kit?
- A 12V PLANAR 2kW diesel parking heater with the original accessories such as an exhaust silencer, cable harness, and a control unit ( thermostat ).
- Our stainless steel under cargo floor parking heater mounting plate, with bendable mounting eyes to attach the fuel pump, exhaust silencer and cable harness.
- An adapter to connect the flow of warm air from the parking heater to the VW air duct.
- Warm air hose for the air inlet side and to connect the parking heater to the warm air side.
- 60mm air inlet for the step, through this the parking heater draws in air. (the VW channel for the suction side does not fit)
What else do I need?
- Popnuts M6 (4 pieces are sufficient) with bolts, size M6x20
- Popnuts crimper
- Drilling machine and a few drill bits.
- A small air saw or an angle grinder to enlarge the warm air opening in the B-column.
- 60-63mm BiMetaal Gatenzaag voor het luchtrooster in de opstap, maar kan ook met de carrosseriezaag.60-63mm BiMetal Hole saw for the air inlet in the step, but you can also use the body saw.
- Option for the 4-motion drivers: the stainless steel mounting box for the parking heater, so it is even better protected against the elements.This is compatible with our parking heater mounting plate, but it doesn't turn your heater into a submarine!
- Option: 7 meter long extension cable for the control unit. Originally, the control unit can be mounted approximately 1.8 meters away from the heater, which may be too close, depending on the interior layout. Li>
- Option: Extra temperature sensor with 5 meters of wiring. Can be used to do the temperature measurement in a different location, than at the control element, or to make separate temperature zones in for example the high top. (only possible with the control unit PU-27)
Installation of the parking heaterThe installation location of the parking heater mounting plate is easy to recognize due to its shape and existing holes in the body. After removing the standard plastic covering from underneath of the bus, the location is behind the right front wheel is visible behind the step. The plastic underbody plating must be reattached after the heater installation! If this is no longer available, the heater must be fitted with the stainless steel mounting box.
Not all mounting holes are necessarily present on all vehicles, sometimes they still have to be drilled. The mounting plate has six attachment points, but if you use 4 that's enough. M6 popnuts should be placed, preferably in the middle of the slots of the mounting plate, so that there is sufficient space for the final alignment of the mounting plate.
Then check whether the mounting plate is in the right place. Pay attention! when crimping the popnuts you must be careful that they are really stuck, otherwise you have a fantastic job ahead to get the bolts loose when disassembling.
The parking heater can be mounted on the mounting plate outside of the car and then hung under the car in its entirety.
Finally you mount the whole thing under the car with the big plate rings and the bolts with big head. (as in the picture) This means, installing the heater is ready.
What's left that needs to be connected to the parking heaterThe exhaust silencer is made of stainless steel and of course is included in the set, as well as a small square plate, which we now use for mounting the exhaust silencer. Coincidentally there is already a hole in the chassis beam, where we can put a popnut. Here the exhaust silencer is mounted in the longitudinal direction and connected with exhaust pipe to the parking heater exhaust. You can also fit the exhaust pipe with the included heat insulation.
The under cargo floor mounting plate has special tabs / eyelets, which can be bent slightly downwards. Here you can easily fasten the air inlet silencer with cable ties. As you can see: the opening of the air inlet silencer does NOT point in the direction of travel.
On the left side of the mounting plate is another eye that we bend outwards with a pair of pliers to 90degrees
Hier kan de rubber houder van de brandstofopvoerpomp worden vast gemaakt. Here you can mount the rubber holder of the fuel pump.
From where do we get the diesel?
Option 1: T-piece in the additional heater fuel line.Fortunately, we are amongst the happy few who have a vehicle with additional diesel heating. This is normally on the driver's side and has its own connection to the fuel tank. So we take a T-Piece and place it in this line.
There are different fuel lines here, so make sure you follow the fuel lines and make sure you cut the right one. Because a Professional was working here, the transparent fuel line on the photo is already protected with a black corrugated sleve.
..... the reason is that with a bit of skill you can pull the fuel line through the sleeper and get back to the passenger side elegantly from the driver's side, where our new heater is already eagerly waiting for fuel!
Option 2: tank connection pipeThe fuel tank must be drained so ....
.... the fuel level sender must be removed. This is the case if the fuel pipe has to be inserted from the inside through the hole drilled in the tank.
The fuel pipe can be mounted on the elevation next to the tank fuel level sensor.
The fuel line follows the original fuel line and secured with cable ties
... and because it looks so beautiful: Lead it through the crossbar to its destination again.
Option 3: Diesel pipe in the tank fuel level senderIf you already have the fuel tank lying next to the car, you can also choose to mount the diesel suction pipe directly in the tank level sender. That is what most major suppliers prescribe. But be careful drilling into this thing, because such a tank float costs serious money! ;)
Fuel primer pumpBecause we finally have fuel where we want it, the fuel primer pump can be fitted. The exit of the pump points to the right (the side with the plug) and with a piece of fuel line it is connected to the heater in a nice curve.
The connector can now also be put together. Insert the pins into the connector! (polarity is not important) and then install it with the same beautiful curve as that of the fuel line. The previously bent eyes where the air intake muffler is attached, we now use to fix the cable with cable ties.
Install the cable harnessBecause the cable harness is rather long, you can roll it into a bundle and secure it with cable ties. Those who are courageous enough can also shorten the cable harness, but this can cause problems with any guarantee claims or similar.
Very convenient is the rubber body cap that is in the van's floor and where you can insert the cable harness for the control unit and the power supply and thus end up in the interior of the vehicle. Depending on how far away you want to place the control element, it makes sense to use the aforementioned optional extension cable. Because the extra temperature sensor must also be connected directly to the heater, you can also lay it alongside with the cables. Wire length is 5 meters.
Hot air duct via B-pillarThe recess for the B-pillar is not available from the factory. The upper edge has a curve that theoretically fits only in one place on the B-pillar, but it is not that important. We do not dare to publish a really accurate drill template right now - and we will not give exact instructions here. So please: work gradually and carefully! Start from the bottom of the B-pillar, and work slowly until everything fits.
The plastic part can contain a very vague template that indicates the exact opening, but apparently this is not always the case.
If the recesses in the plastic panels are not visible, first place the air outlet on the B-pillar and make the opening step by step and adjust. Can be cumbersome, but the result is all the better.
To connect the heater to the heating channel of VW, the adapter included in the kit is connected to the rubber part of VW.
With a small piece of 60mm warm air hose (also included in the set), the exhaust side of the parking heater can be connected very nicely. The advantage of this solution is that due to the difference in diameter with the VW warm air duct, the flow rate of the air decreases, which in turn makes the heater quieter.
In the vehicle now only remains for us to reinstall the upholstery and click the air outlet in it ... READY!
Air intake in the stepThe suction side is not that difficult. First you take off the entry cover and drill a hole for the supplied air inlet. If you now place the upholstery back, you will immediately see where the inletwill come and where you have to make the hole in the body.
From the back you only need to make a nice bow of the supplied 60 mm hot air hose and the suction side is ready!
The upholstery of the floor plate will fit as original under the car after fitting the parking heater, the ground clearance is not reduced. At the exhaust silencer you may be able to mount a small piece of exhaust hose so that it protrudes from the bottom guard plate. It is not difficult to find an elegant solution for this.
Last but not least, only the wiring in the interior remains, which everyone has to do in his own way because of his personal interior design. Only 3 comments:
- Please ensure the heater is well protected with fuses. If it is connected to the starter battery, a battery guard must be installed because the heater only switches off at 10.7V. Depending on the weather, this may not be enough to start!
- Depending on wich control unit you have, you also need to think carefully about the mounting place.If you use the extra temperature sensor, you have an extra 5 meter cable available. You need this one anyway to control the temperature with the PU-control. If you have the PU-27 OLED operating element, you can use the extra temperature sensor to create temperature zones in, for example, the high roof, because you can choose between sensors on the control element.(z
- Please ensure that the cable loom and especially the connection between heater wiring and cable loom is NOT subjected to rain and moisture. The water will/would be able to run down the cableing directly onto the main contrl unit of the heater, which WILL lead to damages. Remember: There is absolutely no warranty for water induced damages!
Done!If you did everything properly, it should work like this... Robert of @lustaufnatur has documented the result of a running heater with a thermal camera - beautiful! Thanx ;)
Happy heating! If you do not dare to install the parking heater yourself, have a look here:Our install partners You also buy the heater through them.